Finger strength training at home reddit. 25/M/currently going to gym 3 times a week.

Finger strength training at home reddit. Kill two birds with one stone. 10-15% a year increases in body weight percentage should be normal for new climbers that work their fingers without being too focused on it. I'd argue that gripstrength is The most useful kind of strength, because it help you carry stuff far, and hold on to things for a long time, like groceries, where as the heaviest thing I'll regularly lift off the floor is a case of beer, which is a bunch lighter than my This is a compilation of cheap/free grip training methods using everyday items for those without a gym. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. So I tried it out earlier today and found my 7 second maximum voluntary contraction to be at about 170% (73. The Soviet climbers claimed that heavy finger rolls produce measurable gains in forearm circumference (a sign of muscle hypertrophy), whereas strength gains from fingerboard or campus training are primarily the result of neurological adaptations. I'm at the I do mostly body weight grip training but also some gripper training and extra forearm work and I’ve noticed my ring and pinky fingers are pretty weak, much weaker than my other fingers, which is understandable because the pinky is so small, but how can I improve my strength in these fingers? My finger strength is actually around it's best, but my endurance is all gone in just 2 months. There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. If you You'll train finger strength by climbing problems that are too difficult for you at the moment. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). Self-learning takes longer to achieve the same result (assuming you get a good teacher of course). Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Are there any way to do weight training and strength and conditioning at home, i don't have any equipments like dumbbell. Last week i tried a finger stregth test (20mm 7sec) and got a total of 173% (65kg bw 48kg additional weigth), i also did a weigthed pull up and got around 150% bw. It’s also not a bad idea to do a short jog or some push-ups and core exercises to get the blood flowing first. This is a Fakespot Reviews Analysis bot. I moved to going to a climbing gym that had a lot of calisthenics equipment and weights and kind of integrated some new methods into my workout to advance. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Apr 6, 2020 · Follow this at-home, all-levels training routine recommended by Nelson to help maintain your climbing strength and keep you prepared for a return to the gym or crag. My local climbing place is about an hour away and I’m only able to go there maybe once every two weeks due to my course load in uni. aka . If you treated finger strength like lifting weights how would you organize training to reach a 140% bw hang, or change your training to reach 170% when basic progress slow? Or is treating half crimp strength as a lifting exercise a wrong approach? Jul 24, 2024 · A weak grip can limit your ability to lift heavy weights and more. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. be/zShhjKxFNdo Nov 21, 2022 · Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing capacity, endurance, and strength-to-weight ratio. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. It would be an interesting thing to explore. Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. In theory, finger isometric strength depends heavily on joint angle. Dead hangs for finger strength and endurance. I think the best board for your needs as you describe them would be moonboard 2016, tension or grasshopper. e. You don't need superhero hand strength to play bass; you just have to be kind of average. But strength gains never hurt anyone either. Mar 22, 2023 · In climbing individual finger training isn't so much a strength display as it is a conditioning work. My wrists and hands are extremely thin and weak compared to the rest of my body (due to genetics). I have a conventional pull-up bar and was wondering whether doing finger hangs is an effective way to develop finger strength (rather than using a hangboard)? Thanks! 40 votes, 48 comments. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. So i've been bouldering for about 1. I juggled between volume frequency and intensity a lot and finally by surprise I see the finger strength increases steadily by using very low intensity and shorten the rest between attempts. I’ve been climbing for about 3 years. I've been doing a lot of research on finger strength training, and I've come up with a plan to help me reach my goals. Got a set of resistance bands and a few dumbbells (it's hard to tell what weights without knowing how strong you are or anything. I am seeking advice on how to build up to a baseline level of ring / hangboarding training. Seeking the latest and greatest finger strength training is probably a high effort low reward road and most folks would see more improvement if they would just pick something for 12weeks and then pick something similar but different for 12 weeks and spend more mental energy focusing on their climbing. Alot of people told me that the grade i climb and my strength doesent I bought a finger strength trainer a few years ago when I sliced my index finger to the bone and needed to rebuild strength and dexterity. I know lots of very strong SLC climbers who swear by Tyler so I'm sure he knows what he's talking about, but calling it 'simplest' is a weird choice. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. ) Been doing it for about 3months now and the differences and slow muscles definition is worth it. Therefore, theory says, when you train with a pinch grip you are only training that specific width. Specific exercises will newrly always beat out non specific exercises for the specific thing they train. You can get +5kg in a short span of time given the progression margin, for a top tier climber that can take years. What would you consider the most important of them to train (if you had to only pick one due to time constraints) in order to move forward? I've been indoor bouldering for about 2 months and want to start developing my finger strength. When the goal of an exercise is something other than grip, it's perfectly OK to strap up. I'm sure you could get a gripster and a stack of plates under your desk though. The outcome was that I was able to gain absolute strength while losing weight at the same time, which caused my relative finger strength to skyrocket from 163. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Helped having it in my pocket to warm up before gigs while shit wasn’t totally healed. Dec 18, 2020 · Grip strength is one of the most critical aspects that differentiates a mediocre climber from an experienced one. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. Not for finger strength but I find these kind of squeeze exercise things quite good for rehabbing on off days. Timestamps:0:00 Introduction1:20 Energy system lesson2:05 Hangboard8:58 Spray wall13:00 Campus board17:32 How to implement each method yourselfToday we're ta Build finger strength by playing guitar. technique is the application of all the resources and capabilities you possess. 5% to 190% body weight for 7-seconds on a 20 mm edge. But what grip strength exercises are best for your goals and routine? Read on. Some other capabilities/resources that you can apply to affect your technique: flexibility, core strength, intelligence, explosivity, shoulder strength, imagination, mobility, fitness An intermediate level is normally where self-learners will hit a ceiling. 4kg BW + 53. Most grip trainers are semi useless. I'm focusing on exercises that target my finger flexor muscles, such as hangboarding, campus board training, and finger rolls. For upper body, my main lifts are Yet he makes no comments on training fatigue, periodization, progressive overload or how to fit these in a weekly training program that includes climbing. Everyone is right though - Climb more to get better at climbing. (15-30sec double-overhand deadlift top holds, or a couple long sets of Kroc rows can be substituted if you work out with weights. In particular, do not use a fingerboard. 4 lbs of force for the red bands, once you outgrow the red bands you can double up or use a red and another band color to increase the resistance. If you find yourself in that position, focus on the "Big 5" lifts: bench press, deadlift, squat, pull-ups, and the overhead press. Find a problem in your gym that is particularly finger-y and work it regularly - you'll find improvements in strength but also in technique and body position as you learn how to make a difficult climb easier. Ironmind is 0. I still can't hold my weight on the doorframe although I Jan 26, 2024 · Wait, are you new to climbing? It’s generally advisable to wait before incorporating specific finger training exercises but read on and see if this guide fits you. Binder clips are great for finger strength. His testing data is still interesting and I might consider getting an uneven edge to train on. Feel free to contribute your own ideas. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. The picture is a screenshot of the results of Crimpd’s finger strength test, which is basically building up to a 1 rep max at 20 mm for 7 seconds. Your finger stress should come from climbing and over doing it is asking for an injury I wonder if anyone is training for finger strength here or has any experience especially in pushing rather than pulling, because there isn't much or any information on that type of "grip" work, even on r/griptraining subreddit. , the top value in a blood pressure measurement). Your grip is giving out because you need to improve your technique, not because you need to improve your grip. Also, in my experience hanging on a slightly bent arm until muscle failure is one of the fastest shortcuts to elbow tendinosis so I'd be wary of the Kilter is great for contact strength and big moves, but not the best for the only method of finger training. Mar 26, 2025 · If you’re hangboarding at home and can’t climb to warm up, improvise. I collected a fair amount of random equipment throughout the years and figured, why not? For lower body I am doing sandbag lifts with bags weighing between 150 and 250 lbs (I figure this will be plenty for now). Extensor training after grip strength training helps strengthen tendons that are still associated with grip strength. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. . 5 years (4months only Training at home) and my hardest send to this day is a 7a+ boulder on a Board and a 7a boulder in a gym. It's all about strengthening the tendons really. Strength training is a total game changer for weightloss, strength and toning. I added in the wrist curl as condition training also. Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). Feb 24, 2023 · He started training at 50 percent bodyweight on the 20 mm edge in late 2017, and then achieved 90 percent nearly 1. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. I know that building finger strength takes time and patience, but I'm willing to put in the work. Have any of you tried both these methods? I think the idea is that if your forearms / finger strength is failing while bouldering, that means that bouldering is more than enough to gain strength in those regions. And yes we are scared of falling. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. He basically stretched 1 minute video into 25 minutes missing all the crucial points. Post your progress pics, workout routines, rants about TDEE, and more! I personally started off working out at home, built a lot of strength and confidence, but kind of plateaued. For college student i already have enough expenses, but i have those containers that easily weigh 2+kg (food containers) if needed i can utilise those. 989 pounds/month. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. Fakespot detects fake reviews, fake products and unreliable sellers using AI. ) Plate pinch or thick towel hangs, 3x 15-30sec holds. Hi all, I would like to ask about finger strength training which is my weakness and I really want to improve. I recently got turned onto using the tindeq and further more into trying out maximal concentric finger curls with a block… This is a sub for petite women to come talk all things weight-loss, weight-gain, and fitness. If you are a generally fit person to start with, your hands are already plenty strong enough to play bass (no special exercise required). Check it out! It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. This is one of the more complex finger strength training plans I've seen in 15 years of training. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. Then my problem is, I cannot sustain at 4kg everyweek /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Building finger strength takes time and can be a gradual process. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. The only answer is time and consistency, introduce finger boards when there’s no climbs available that are challenging your fingers strength, or you’re adding weight to max hangs (after minimum a year of solid climbing) You theoretically can finger board now and probably avoid injury, but the reward for risk is not worth it. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. I bought a 'GripMaster' from Amazon but it does not seem to be doing much as far as I can tell. The progress in finger strength is sort of logarithm. So I recently picked up a set of pinch blocks, and after the initial excitement of converting my weak flesh mitts into hardened lobster claws subsided, I got to thinking: Are pinch blocks actually a good way to train pinch strength? Firstly, a pinch block is typically attached to a weight on a rope by an anchor point around which the pinch block has a high degree of freedom to rotate and or The benefit is that you can probably do hundreds of reps with each finger versus trying something whack with weights that'll get you maybe 5-6 reps. Most hang training / rock ring programs assume you can already hang. I'd highly suggest figuring out what those weaknesses are whether it's technique or other things. This statement seems reasonable since the heavy finger rolls cause repeated, high-intensity eccentric and concentric contractions of the forearm . As to whether the gripper exercisers increase your grip strength, I think it depends on specificity, if you need a specific type of grip strength you would be better off with an exercise that matches the specific demands of your sport or job. Nothing else has ever actually improved my hand strength. If you can hang 45 lbs on 6mm and ONLY doing V10 then your issue is not finger strength - it's other weaknesses preventing you from sending harder. The home of Climbing on reddit. You could do something similar to that last bonus challenge with them, but it would be much harder than a clothes pin. This is loosely based off u/jeremyfirth 's top post of all time. absolutely do not go anywhere near a campus board. These specifically help you move each finger independently, and build pinky strength, but you should only compress one finger at a time. 1. Loads of people do them, including a lot of very strong climbers. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip I'm going to go against the grain. With these strength gains, I was able to improve from Moonboard 7A benchmark to 7B benchmark, and even send a 7B+ boulder. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. EDIT: Wow lots of great ideas in here! Thanks everyone What exercises worked best for you guys in developing a killer grip along with overall hand strength? I want to develop that touch of God!! Has anyone trained wrist or forearm strength in particular and noticed useful carry over to improvements in climbing? Has anybody has success with training this longer term? I recently see increasing content online relating to isolated training of the wrists via forearm training inspired by forearm training tools and drills with the wrist wrench and heavy roller style exercises from the likes There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. If you’re training finger strength (hangboard), always train open hand just to avoid injury and because it’s the one you and most people are worse at. Breaking into the advanced levels requires finesse and nuance that isn't really possible on your own. All things being equal, finger strength IS important, but if you can't use the finger strength then it's more of a net negative and reinforces bad habits (muscling through climbs) which you will eventually have to unlearn. If you've got limited time, you're better off getting lessons because it will actually save you time. 5 years into consistent conditioning. Strangely, I watched a video about this earlier today: https://youtu. I know that when I used to play piano I always had to do these weird finger exercises. Why this protocol? Because it’s very time-effective and backed by science to maximize finger strength. Follow guidelines from the "Bodyweight Training and Calisthenics" routine. Hangboarding is also the safest way to build hand strength because you can train progressively and measurably, starting with lighter weights and gradually building a base of strength over weeks/months. I think they were called piano finger independence exercises. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. If you identify a specific weakness, programing in 15 minutes to address that weakness /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. You train the tendon first and foremost with individual finger training. I simply became quite "efficient" at these and I climbed half v3 and several v4 benchmarks on moonboard but my finger strength still stalled. For the past year or so I became really focused on training well, and I started hangboarding about 5 months ago—largely using the Crimpd app to structure my hangboarding. (And a lovely pastime) Grip strength for climbing is isometric so using the squeezy grip rod things has virtually no translation to crimpin' the proj. Hey, I recently moved and decided to try to make a go at working out at home for strength and size. Hello lovely people, Just wondering if anyone can give me advice on finger strength ?, I want to be able to do a pull ups on my door frame but the fingers are just far too weak : (, I've started implementing finger pushups and finger floor l sits into my routine but its been 3 weeks and I haven't noticed any considerable gains . Get dexterity and strength. Straps: You don't want your finger strength to hold back training other parts of your body. I want go back to sport climbing this autumn and was thinking about incorporating endurance training into my routine. It’s important to allow your fingers to adapt and strengthen naturally through consistent climbing. But your training should work both. See full list on emedihealth. If you get those little kits with the 5 different kind of instruments they do a good job of lightly working out all those lower arm/hand parts Reply reply Basicallydirt • If you have the requisite strength level to campus board safely, IMO that's a better tool that hits most of the same aspects of climbing strength; however, for at home training or if you simply don't have access to a campus board, finger pull ups can be a good exercise. Listen to everyone in the thread who's telling you to just keep climbing and avoid finger strength training. TL;DR: Plateau at finger strength / can't crimp. Plus it makes your wrists stronger and contributes to stronger thumbs which helps with grip strength. Edit:- I usually do pushups, squats and burpees at my academy. Mar 10, 2023 · Having strength and being able to apply strength are two different things. The best way to get better at something is by doing it, not superflous exercises meant to be shortcuts. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. I’m 180cm, 77kg 7a lead outdoor. Now I do calisthenics and weight training. Dec 17, 2024 · I think the biggest thing is that even with great balance, your body weight is to going fluctuate over your fingers as you balance, so each individual finger is going to need a lot more strength than something much steadier like a fingertip L sit. Doing supplemental exercises won’t be AS effective for training as will simply bouldering more. I wouldn't do much direct grip training though. TLDR: it’d be more beneficial to train open hand strength than full crimp strength. 1kg). Longer than average fingers. Get your first pull-up, carry more things, and keep your hands healthy and happy! 50 votes, 26 comments. Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Any grip-strength trainer, a malleable stress ball, or putty is a good way to start warming up your fingers. Feb 10, 2025 · This ultimate guide will help you develop better grip strength quickly. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. Shouldering, front squats, carries, high pulls. I was wondering if anybody knew good exercises and routines to strengthen my fingers and wrist. Getting started with weight training can be an intimidating endeavor, leaving beginners confused about what exercises they should focus on. Like, general training is cool and all, but most of us are office monkeys anyway, we don't need it, it's just nice to have. Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews: Name: Grip Strength Trainer,Gripster,Finger Strengthener-2PCS Hand Grip Strengthener,Grip Strength Trainer,6 Resistant Level Finger Exerciser & Hand Strengthener,Finger Flexion Extension Training (Black&Grey) Company 25/M/currently going to gym 3 times a week. Is there anything similar for guitar? And while we are at it, what are some cool apps I could use? I've been wanting to take the Lattice at-home finger-strength training test for a while but haven't had access to the equipment. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. Finger strength is conserved over time, given there is continued stimulus: Throughout Xumo’s progression, he maintained a steady rate of increase in finger strength of ~1. researchers have reported that grip strength is inversely related to all-cause mortality, and it can be an even stronger predictor of cardiovascular mortality than systolic blood pressure (i. This is why training to strengthen your fingers is crucial if you want to take your climbing skills to Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. com You should take a look at climbing training, where finger strength of incredibly important. You're probably better off using a rubber band or other device to work your finger extensors at work as consistent antagonist training. I know I have super weak fingers technique is a function of finger strength but it is not just finger strength. I’m a beginner in climbing and I was wondering if there were workouts to increase your finger strength in the weight room. V5 bouldering My finger max is 10 kg add in 7 seconds. I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out there. If you’re home, it’s better to play guitar, but if you’re working, these do help. They work really well in that context. Climbing is a mental and technical skill sport that requires regular practice and devotion, and paying attention to your finger strength is crucial if you want to climb safely. Do I just do the programs while supporting from my legs until I am able to hang unsupported? Reddit's rock climbing training community. The past couple of weeks that I've armwrestled I've felt a significant difference in my grip. The only stuff I've found that had any carryover to functional grip strength (for me, that means being able to not drop an 800+ pound deadlift) are plate pinches for time, double overhand fat bar deadlifts, and captains of crush grippers. I have follow the max hang protocol that now can do 4kg (90% max) for 10 sec 6 rep. urju vty zdlcv llyx nobu jbde ktvmt wkzvoj cmw gpi